Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently defined its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – little-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their younger generation do not want to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these stories and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
